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  • mkmcst 12:37 am on January 12, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    Wrong pH levels create nutrient deficiencies

  • mkmcst 12:33 am on January 12, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    Remove yellow leaves 

    nce it has entered the flowering stage, the number one thing to speed up your plant’s bud growth is to remove any dying leaves.

    These leaves can be identifying by their yellowing color. They are a lost cause, and they are using up your plant’s energy and resources that could be focused on bigger and better things (namely, the buds). Take away the yellowing leaves to conserve these resources.

  • mkmcst 12:31 am on January 12, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    bud develops in 8 weeks 

  • mkmcst 12:19 am on January 12, 2018 Permalink | Reply  


  • mkmcst 12:18 am on January 12, 2018 Permalink | Reply  


  • mkmcst 4:53 pm on January 11, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    Why Put Epsom Salts on Plants? 

    Why not? Even if you don’t believe in its effectiveness, it never hurts to try it. Magnesium allows plants to better take in valuable nutrients, like nitrogen and phosphorus. It also helps in the creation of chlorophyll, which is vital for photosynthesis. In addition, magnesium greatly improves a plant’s ability to produce flowers and fruit. If the soil becomes depleted of magnesium, adding Epsom salt will help; and since it poses little danger of overuse like most commercial fertilizers, you can use it safely on nearly all your garden plants. How to Water Plants with Epsom Salts Want to know how to water plants with Epsom salts? It’s easy. Simply substitute it for regular watering either once or twice a month. Keep in mind that there are a number of formulas out there, so go with whatever works for you. Before applying Epsom salt, however, it’s a good idea to have your soil tested to determine whether it’s deficient of magnesium. You should also be aware that many plants, like beans and leafy vegetables, will happily grow and produce in soils with low levels of magnesium. Plants like rose, tomatoes and peppers, on the other hand, require lots of magnesium, and therefore, are more commonly watered with Epsom salt. When diluted with water, Epsom salt is easily taken up by plants, especially when applied as a foliar spray. Most plants can be misted with a solution of 2 tablespoons of Epsom salt per gallon of water once a month. For more frequent watering, every other week, cut this back to 1 tablespoon. With roses, you can apply a foliar spray of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water for each foot of the shrub’s height. Apply in spring as leaves appear and then again after flowering. For tomatoes and peppers, apply 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt granules around each transplant or spray (1 tbsp. per gallon) during transplanting and again following the first bloom and fruit set.

  • mkmcst 4:51 pm on January 11, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    Is Epsom Salt Good for Plants? 

    Yes, there seem to be good, relevant reasons for using Epsom salts for plants. Epsom salt helps improve flower blooming and enhances a plant’s green color. It can even help plants grow bushier. Epsom salt is made up of hydrated magnesium sulfate (magnesium and sulfur), which is important to healthy plant growth.

  • mkmcst 10:05 pm on January 10, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    Treating old soil 

    How to properly clean your dirty old soil!

    Disclaimer: I’d like to say that none of the information provided has been discovered by myself. I just did a lot of research on the subject because of a number of complaints from fellow soil growers about fungus gnat infested soil, moldy soil, problems recycling soil, etc.

    Occasionally everyone gets a bad batch of soil…you all know what I’m talking about. You’re finally ready for your transplant so you open up your bag of rich, organic soil only to find it’s filled with fungus gnats or some other unwelcome pest. Soil-borne fungi and nematodes can be very destructive to your crops, causing seed rot, seedling diseases, and vascular wilts.

    There are various ways to treat soil that is infested. The safest and most popular method is Heat Treatment. Various soil fumigants exist which create a toxic environment in the soil and will remain toxic for a few weeks or more depending on what kind of fumigant is used.

    “Sterilizing” is actually a misnomer, since complete sterilization would completely eliminate every living thing in the soil, creating a “biological vacuum”. This “vacuum” would then give an accidentally reintroduced disease-causing organisms the opportunity to multiply and spread rapidly, causing a severe disease situation.

    Instead, treatments can be used that will eliminate the undesirable organisms, but leave many of the harmless or beneficial soil organisms (called pasteurization). This remaining microbial population will compete with any introduced troublemaker and help prevent it from becoming established and spreading rapidly in the treated soil.

    Heat Treatment
    Temperature control is CRITICAL when heat treating soils. Overheating or under heating can lead undesirable results. Most disease-causing fungi are killed by a 30-minute treatment at 140°F.

    Plant parasitic bacteria, most plant viruses, and soil insects are killed at 160°F for 30 minutes, and most weed seeds between 160° and 180°F for 30 minutes.

    Remember: the higher the treatment temperature, the greater the number of beneficial organisms that will also be killed.

    DO NOT OVERHEAT! Chemicals toxic to plant growth can be produced in soils when temperatures reach around 212°F (boiling point of water and temperature of steam). This more commonly occurs with soils having high organic matter content. A maximum treatment of 160°F for 30 minutes is suggested.

    Oven Method:
    Place the soil in containers so that the soil is level, not more than 4 inches deep. A glass or metal baking pan will work fine. Cover each container tightly with aluminum foil. Place a meat or candy thermometer through the foil and into the center of the soil. Set the oven to 160-180°F and heat for 30 minutes after the soil temperature reaches 160°F. After the treatment, allow the soil to cool.

    Note: For large amounts of soil it may not be possible to use an oven. Instead you can use the heat of the sun. First break up the soil and make sure it’s moist. If not, water it and cover with a piece of plastic. Add more soil around the edges of the plastic to keep it from coming loose and letting the moisture and heat out. Leave the soil undisturbed under the sun for a few weeks before planting.

    Soil Fumigants
    There are various products available for use in outdoor plots that can be used when heat treatment is not an option. These products are VERY hazardous and should not be used under any circumstances where you’re plants are already in the plots!

    They are for treating unplanted soil and once applied, the area must be covered with a tarp and left. Aeration times vary. Read the label.

    I just put a post in the grow faq about Cation Exchange Capacity. Read the short little part about Sodium buildup. 15% total saturation is considered borderline toxicity. From what I’ve read Clearex is awesome.

    I have seen research suggesting a high beneficial bacteria and micro-organism content helps prevent outbreaks from undesired critters.

    The technique your talking about to sterilize compost piles is called solarizing. You can get more information but I’ve heard of just putting clear plastic sheeting over the pile.

    DO NOT OVERHEAT! Chemicals toxic to plant growth can be produced in soils when temperatures reach around 212°F (boiling point of water and temperature of steam). This more commonly occurs with soils having high organic matter content. A maximum treatment of 160°F for 30 minutes is suggested.

    Organic matter such as humus or clay have high Cation Exchange Capacity. If you’ve ever taken chem 100 you know heat accelerates the release of bonds between ionized metal salts and the medium.

  • mkmcst 10:02 pm on January 10, 2018 Permalink | Reply  

    What is Nutrient Lockout? 

    Nutrient lockout happens when your plant can not access specific, or all nutrients in the growing medium, this is due to a chemical reaction within the medium/solution which prevents nutrients from being absorbed by the roots.

    Aged nutrients can precipitate in the bottle, causing some of the ingredients to become solids or even evaporate, the same problem may also occur in the growing medium.

    Lockout will display the same symptoms as nutrient deficiency; to help control this problem dispose of old liquid feed containers as you would old medicine and use fresh nutrients from a bottle that has been recently opened.

    The following points can also be responsible for nutrient lockout.

    PH is incorrect or fluctuates.

    Single pack hydroponic solutions.

    Salt build up.

    A chemical reaction between 2 or more nutrient solutions that are mixed together.

    For acute deficiency symptoms caused by toxicity and nutrient lockout a first Aid program should be immediately administered.

    Step 1) Leach the plants roots and growing medium using a professional leaching agent to thoroughly leach away metals, calcium, sodium, chlorides, sulphates and many other compounds, which can build up in the growing media.

    Step 2) Feed with 1/4 strength high quality complete plant food mix along with a high quality vitamin B-1 product such as Superthrive (1 drop per gallon).

    Step 3) Spray a professional stay green formula on the leaves. After 24hrs, spray the leaves with a quality vitamin B-1 product. Feed at 25% of recommended fertilizer dosage until first signs of growth.

  • mkmcst 2:19 am on January 10, 2018 Permalink | Reply  


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